A streak of orange cut across the eastern horizon as National Geographic Endurance slowly pulled up to Philpots Island this morning, harp seals dancing amongst icebergs and an expansive tidewater glacier disappearing into the fog ahead of us. We spent the morning cruising quietly around the bay, the light shifting ethereally and a late-leaving flock of Arctic terns feeding in the changing tidewaters. A known walrus haul-out was uncharacteristically empty.
By afternoon, the sun had returned, and the ship moved around the island to a bay brimming with recently calved sapphire icebergs. Two brown spots on one of the pieces of ice caught the attention of the Bridge: we had finally found our walruses! A total of six were spotted, and the tour was rounded out by yet another “wildlife sighting”: our very own crew dressed as polar bears and Vikings and bearing hot chocolate. As we departed Philpots Island, the sun broke through and illuminated Devon Island’s ice fields with crystal fire.
Some days write themselves.
