Port Lockroy & Cruising the Peninsula, 12/15/2018, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
Today we visited Port Lockroy, a British research station built in 1944 as part of the secret Operation Tabarin, a large-scale effort to occupy the Antarctic Peninsula during World War II. Restored in 1996 by Antarctic Heritage Trust, these buildings stand as a testament to a dramatic time and provide insight into what it would have been like to live and work at a mid-century Antarctic base. In the afternoon, we celebrated the end of our time on the Antarctic Peninsula with a barbeque and polar plunge.
Born near Seattle, Washington, Rab enjoyed a highly unconventional childhood as the son of a veterinary science professor. He spent his youth paddling canoes through Canada’s hinterlands, deepening his love and understanding of the natural world.
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Traveling south aboard National Geographic Endurance , we ride the steady rhythm of the following seas toward Antarctica. Albatrosses, prions, and petrels accompany us, their effortless flight a constant presence above the waves. These seabirds, perfectly adapted to the harsh conditions, escort the ship through one of the most remote regions on earth. In the galley, preparations continue as usual, with the occasional clatter of a spatula against a pan punctuating the ship’s daily routines. This small sound offers a sense of normalcy amidst the vast and untamed Southern Ocean. Outside, the air sharpens, and the sea begins to hint at the icy landscapes ahead. As the ship presses on, the anticipation grows. The seabirds continue to follow, a living connection to the wilderness around us. Soon, icebergs will break the horizon, and the familiar blue of the ocean will give way to the stark whites of Antarctica. Each mile south reinforces the sense of entering a world where survival is a delicate balance, and every element of life must adapt to extremes. The journey promises discovery and an encounter with one of the planet’s last frontiers.
Our day at sea began with the awe-inspiring sight of Antarctica’s vast, icy landscapes. As we awoke, we found ourselves surrounded by towering mountains and glaciers, with Mikkelsen Harbor on the horizon. This small island, just south of Trinity Island, offered an unforgettable landing. We ventured ashore, walking among playful gentoo penguins and encountering four Weddell seals, including an adorable nursing pup. While some soaked in the sights, our undersea specialist, Emmet, captivated us with a fascinating lecture on the Southern Ocean’s currents. After returning aboard, we savored a delicious lunch as we cruised icy waters toward our afternoon destination, the rugged Spert Island. Zodiacs took us on a thrilling exploration of the island’s dramatic coastline where towering cliffs, steep rock faces, and natural rock arches formed a surreal backdrop, all framed by gigantic icebergs in every shape and size. As the day drew to a close, we gathered for our evening recap and briefing, reflecting on the day’s highlights and eagerly anticipating tomorrow’s adventures. It was yet another unforgettable day in the heart of Antarctica, where nature’s raw beauty never fails to amaze.
It’s a foggy morning with fairly calm seas. Antarctica waits for us, shrouded, mysterious, and might I say magical! We enter English Strait, a narrow passage that bisects the South Shetland Islands. Shortly we can see land, Barrientos Island, our proposed landing site after breakfast. There are penguins here and so much more to come. This is just the beginning of the adventure.
