The excitement started literally minutes after this day began as our southward progress towards Snow Hill Island was halted emphatically by closely packed ice floes and icebergs. We had hoped to find emperor penguins loitering on ice floes near Snow Hill Island, but even the best-laid plans are subject to the vagaries of the Antarctic. After turning around and then escaping from the pack ice, we sailed north through the Weddell Sea past James Ross Island and around Vega Island to the Prince Gustav Channel. Although it had been the middle of the night, there was plenty of light, and bridge crew sighted several emperor penguins in the far distance on ice adjoining the islands.
While we all enjoyed another ample and delicious breakfast, our intrepid captain made several efforts to park the vessel in the fast ice of Prince Gustav Channel in hopes of letting us off the ship for an extended ice walk. But, the ice was very brittle. As we watched the white expanse of ice ahead, the ship’s forward motion opened cracks that shot ahead through the fast ice seemingly like lightening in very slow motion. Although it wouldn’t be possible to do the ice walk, the skies cleared and the wind died down, so kayaks and Zodiacs were lowered for leisurely cruising along the edge of the fast ice. Adélie penguins were out in force sunning themselves after their extended polar feeding plunges. Skittish ones kept their distance while curious ones walked to the edge of the ice, trying to make sense of our small boats with their strange noise from the rapid fire clicking of camera shutters.
Sea ice is always moving and never stationary, as we discovered once again in the late afternoon. An immense amount of pack ice had moved directly into our intended path. Once again, the National Geographic Orion forged easily through the ice, pushing floes to either side or cracking them in two as we steamed forward. The sounds and bumps of constant ice deflection reminded us of the environment through which we were sailing.
Once through the pack ice, we entered absolutely calm waters with occasional floes and bergs beautifully highlighted by the low angle of the early evening sun. To top off a spectacular day, the ship’s crew served a champagne and canapé celebration on the ship’s forecastle as we reminisced about how each day has had its spectacular moments, none of which could have been foretold before we set sail from Ushuaia or even the day before.
