It’s named for royalty, and hardly a surprise that we are getting the “royal treatment” in Prince Rupert.  As we enter the port there are two genuine Canadian Mounties in full uniform, boots, spurs, and hat, flanking the town’s Mayor, who is himself very well dressed. He is offering a smile and a handshake to anyone who wants one, though for some reason when I come by he offers me handcuffs rather than a handshake. I’m pretty sure that was in good fun….

They are certainly welcoming in the Museum of Northern British Columbia. We wander amongst display cases full of wonderful regalia and artifacts, mostly from the local First Nations Tsimshian culture. Our guides tell us about the “Winter Feasts,” when people gather to share song, dance, and story while a powerful chief shows his (or her) wealth and generosity by giving gifts to every guest. We are invited to the Long House to experience a sample of this experience ourselves. Along the way, we are somehow transformed from a collection of people into Honored Guests. 

After lunch we cast off, and we’ve got some valuable “free time,” an opportunity to rest, read, relax, or attend a talk about bears or about creative ideas for using your photos. Some choose to watch the world roll by, starting with Prince Rupert’s big working port, where they are loading giant ships with grain while a mountain of coal waits nearby. It gets wilder after that, as we sail across Chatham Sound and head for the relatively narrow channel known as Grenville Strait. 

It has turned into a beautiful afternoon. There are wisps of mist draping some of the mountains to either side, but the sky is bright. Hillsides here are completely covered with forest, and we have added a couple of species of big tree as we head south, so, if anything, there are even more shades and textures of green than we have seen. We are tempted into the Expedition Landing Crafts, and our outing is pure exploration. What most of us know about Baker Inlet ahead of time is that there is a note on the map that says “tiny entrance, strong currents.” Sounds like our kind of place. And in fact, we have a grand time exploring the shoreline, spotting waterfalls and waterfowl, kelp forest and rainforest, before it is time to head back in for recap and dinner.

It’s not over yet. As I write this we are actually on a scuba dive under the waters of the British Columbia coast. Or to be more precise, our underwater specialist and a photo team leader are transmitting live video and narrative from a dive they are actually doing RIGHT NOW beside the boat. Phenomenal.