We arrived in Inglefield Bredning in northwestern Greenland under clear skies and immediately noticed both the time zone change and our gradual move to lower latitudes. The sun rose markedly later than yesterday and bathed the icebergs dotting the fjord in gorgeous orange hues.

Visiting Qaanaaq is a special experience since perhaps no other community in Greenland retains such close ties with the subsistence hunting culture of the Inuit. We were welcomed into the sports hall and shown a beautiful drum-dancing performance, a hunting tent, a kayak, an Inuit Games sporting demonstration, and some local delicacies to sample.

We also visited the museum, which is housed in Knud Rasmussen and Peter Freuchen’s original trading station which has been relocated to the town, and the women’s association who showcased their collection of fur clothes.

The exchange and conversation with the residents of Qaanaaq was a real pleasure and many of us made the most of the visit by staying in town into the early afternoon.

We eventually returned to National Geographic Endurance for lunch and an afternoon at sea in preparation for adventures further south along the coast of West Greenland.