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Expedition Stories
Our fleet navigates the world in search of adventure. These are the stories they bring back…
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Previous Reports
6/4/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
From a mooring in the Sound of Iona, Zodiacs landed us at the village pier with the silver sands of Iona in the foreground and the Abbey beyond. The sea was a clear blue-green. We were early visitors to the island, and the monuments were for us to enjoy alone. The island is multifaceted in its appeal, and from a stance on top of the rocky knoll, which is said to be where St. Columba had his small living cell, I could see naturalists of our party heading to the northern end of the island in search of corn crakes and meadow plants. Around the Abbey the more historically minded were photographing the Early Christian crosses and Romanesque doorway of St Oran's Chapel and wending their way to the small museum containing an amazing display of gravestones and memorials. Before the beginning of the morning service, candles were lit in many areas of the Abbey church. With the singing of the first hymn a truly medieval resonance had been created. The communion congregation included many members of the Caledonian Star as well as holidaymakers and island residents. An inspiring cantor led the musical praise. Other contemplative members enjoyed the peace of the cloister of the Nunnery, now planted with summer flowers including flaming peonies. The west front of the Abbey, with the Early Christian crosses in the foreground, evokes several aspects that combine to offer an exceptional sense of history. The crosses date to the high point of artistic endeavor within the monastic community in the mid-to-late eighth century AD. The impressive doorway of the Benedictine Abbey bears testimony not only to the skills of the original builders in the thirteenth century, but also to the dedication of the restorers who have brought the Abbey back to life. From Donegal to Iona, we have been learning about the famous Irish saint Columba, and marveling at his sea journey in a boat created from hide and wicker in AD 563. Columba founded a monastery on Tory Island, and last night we saw some of the early Christian remains on the island, including a round tower, crosses and a tiny church, before enjoying a memorable evening of island hospitality. After Iona, skillful navigation by the Captain took us to see the island of Staffa and Fingal's Cave from the best angle possible. The columnar basalt formation was clearly visible. Several of those on deck were audibly humming Mendelssohn! In the afternoon, Kinloch Castle on Rum could not have been more of a contrast. Built for a Lancashire industrialist in 1891, the Castle contains the original furniture and fittings, including period bathrooms of astonishing sophistication and a remarkable musical orchestrion.
6/7/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
St. Kilda -- those enigmatic 'Islands on the Edge of the World' -- looked magical, bathed in early morning sunlight on a calm, sunny morning. The greens of the vegetation contrasted brilliantly with the grays of the cliffs and rocks of Dun, Hirta and Soay as we cruised slowly past Boreray with the 'fang' of Stac An Armin to starboard and circumnavigated Stac Lee. We marveled at the tens of thousands of nesting northern gannets on the flat faces of spade-like Stac Lee, at the hundreds of northern fulmars wheeling stiffly past both us and their breeding ledges, and at the guillemots and puffins whirring by busily en route between nests and feeding grounds. But Hirta and the old village awaited us. Landing was relatively easy at the pier. The energetic ones explored the area of An Lag above the village and viewed the dramatic cliffs of Conachair -- over 1,300 feet high -- and Oiseval from The Gap, with a splendid view across to Boreray and its Stacs and of the hundreds of fulmars nesting on the cliffs. Others were guided round the village with Andy Robinson, the Nature Reserve Warden, visiting the restored kirk and school room, the feather store-being repaired by a National Trust Working Party -- and the restored cottages, learning en route something of the history of human occupation of the island. With sadness we had to leave it all at mid-day. But all were thankful for the fine weather and the opportunity it had afforded us: some for an ambition fulfilled-to see St. Kilda, let alone land on it; others for the shear joy of being there again; all for the opportunity to experience the magic of these remote and enigmatic islands.
6/9/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
Kirkwall, Orkney: Our arrival in Orkney on the penultimate leg of our voyage saw Kirkwall bathed in crisp sunshine. The little town is dominated by the impressive old red sandstone cathedral dedicated to St Magnus. Begun about 1137 at a period when the Norse earldom of Orkney was still part of the kingdom of Norway, the cathedral has remained remarkably intact, with the architectural style evolving from the rounded Romanesque of the western end to a more Gothic pointed style at the east. Our visit to the prehistoric village of Skara Brae offered a comprehensive picture of the day-to-day life in Orkney around 2800 BC. The internal arrangements of the houses are unusually complete, with a central hearth, beds on either side, and a dresser, or shelf unit on which ceramic pots would doubtless have been set. A reconstructed house gives the fullest impression of daily life with skins and even the odd lobster. The roof of timber and turf allows us to imagine how the houses must have looked. The circles of the Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar with their surrounding rock-cut ditches demonstrate the great engineering skills of Orcadian communities almost five thousand years ago. The ditches were dug out and the tall standing stones erected without metal tools, yet a great degree of precision was achieved in the final plans The great burial mound of Maes Howe is broadly contemporary and is equally an achievement in drystone architecture and orientation, with the mid-winter sunset penetrating the central chamber for a period around the winter solstice. We were amazed by the series of inscriptions in the runic letters of the Vikings with enigmatic messages. But here were the Norse earls of Orkney setting off on Crusade to the Holy Land in the 1150s. St. Magnus Cathedral is the most important building of Orkney's Norse past, but on our excursion our guide pointed out the many place names of Norse origin that we passed. Orkney was at the center of the kingdom of Norway, which was maintained by naval power. We also saw the great enclosed bay of Scapa Flow and heard about Orkney's strategic position in recent conflicts.
6/12/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
Puffins! Few birds are more endearing. They combine the comic-seeming ineptitude of penguins with the bright color of some exotic tropical fowl. The result is a bird that wins the hearts of nearly everyone. Fair Isle presents one of the great wildlife spectacles of the world- at least if you like puffins! Seabirds depend on inaccessible sites to nest in safety, so most puffin colonies can be viewed only by boat. But here on Fair Isle the puffin colony can be reached on foot, and the birds, accustomed to human visitors, allow us to sit right beside their burrows! We enjoyed their clowning antics, such as bill-tipping territorial displays, and the "puffin kiss"- a paired slapping of colorful bills. We were close enough to hear their subterranean growlings, which sounded like distant chainsaws, and even the patter of their feet as the ran for shelter underground! Like puffins, humans have long occupied Fair Isle. And though it is one of the most isolated places in Britain, sixty or so people live here. Their traditional farms maintain the habitat for open-country birds like skylarks and curlews. At the Community Center, we talked to Fair Islanders and saw their traditional crafts, including colorful sweaters and caps. The rich designs of their knitting are said to derive from patterns introduced by shipwrecked sailors from the Spanish Armada! Overlapping layers of cultural and natural history never fail to impress us in the British Isles.
6/14/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
The Orkney Islands: Mainland and Shapinsay It was with some relief that we awoke today to calm waters and blue skies. In Kirkwall, the local and national press highlighted the damage caused by the storm of the day before. Our morning tour took us to the spectacular archaeological sites for which this northerly island group is famous. The late Neolithic village of Skara Brae was first revealed to an astonished local landowner following another violent storm in 1850. On that morning after, he had become the bewildered owner of one of Europe's oldest preserved settlements, with stone wall homes replete with dressers, box beds, quern stones and cozy hearths. The Ring of Brodgar, our next point of call, is a remarkable megalithic stone circle, some sixty stones in all, that archaeologists believe was orientated to the lunar cycle. Our final visit on the tour was to the Maes Howe passage grave. This grave has solar alignment, and squeezing inside we could appreciate the remarkable social and architectural achievement that enables the setting sunlight of the winter solstice to stream along the passage onto the burial site. Following lunch, we were provided with an opportunity to explore Kirkwall at our leisure. Its principal site is St Magnus Cathedral, the existence of which has conferred city status on little Kirkwall for the past eight hundred years. The relics of St Magnus, who has his own Norse saga, have a place of honor in the cathedral. We saw the cathedral preparing for its annual music festival under the distinguished direction of Peter Maxwell Davies. In the late afternoon the Caledonian Star repositioned from Mainland to Shapinsay for a visit to Balfour castle, where Captain Zawadski, the present owner, greeted us. The castle (pictured) is still a family home, in which we were made most welcome, admiring the furnishings and library of a bygone age, and taking a delicious high tea also redolent of more gracious times. With the late evening sunshine flooding over this unique land and skyscape, it was the perfect close to a memorable day.
6/16/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
As in the days of yore, Scottish highlanders battle for supremacy! Once, clan chiefs and their followers fought fiercely for land and prestige. But today it was only highland cattle jousting. We stopped at the Isle of Skye and found a few of the beasties. Comparatively diminutive, and with hair-in-the-face bangs, the creatures were as cute as cattle ever get. They approached us like great shaggy puppy dogs, with a mixture of curiosity and apprehension. After regarding us with great solemnity, a pair suddenly broke off for a bout of head butting. The third eyed us for a few minutes more before realizing that a duel was in progress. Suddenly inspired, he lumbered off to join the game. But the battle ended as soon as it began, and the trio bowed their heads for some placid grass munching. Nearby loomed Dunvegan Castle. Seat of the MacLeod Clan, this castle has been occupied since 1200. We toured the castle and viewed the many treasures it houses, none more intriguing than the Fairy Flag. Imbued with magic power, the flag can save the clan from destruction if waved in a true crisis. But, having been waved twice already, power for only one more rescue remains! Later in the day, on the Isle of Rum, we visited a castle of a completely different sort. Kinloch, hardly an ancient site, was built in 1901. It is a nouveau riche residence with all the trappings of newfound nobility, plus the quirky modernity of Edwardian invention. We saw mounted stag's heads in profusion, clunky toilets glazed with lovely chrysanthemums, showers that sprayed hot water from every direction, and a mechanical orchestra. After touring the house, we adjourned to the ballroom, where a special reception had been laid out for us. We sampled hors d'oeuvres and tasted whiskey from nearby distilleries. Whiskey, bulls and castles - always a fine combo, and never better than in the Scottish Isles!
6/6/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
Canna and Eriskay Our Zodiacs entered Canna harbor, a sheltered anchorage between Canna and Sanday, two islands linked by a narrow footbridge. Fields to the south are protected by high ground to the north which rise to form impressive cliffs. We explored from below by Zodiac, where we discovered puffins, razorbills, and other interesting sea birds. From tracks along shore, we watched eider ducks with their chicks, as well as oystercatchers. High on the hillsides were golden eagles. There was history too. There is an impressive 9th century cross, with mystical animals, a lively horseman, and the adoration of the Magi. At the stark stack of Chroghon Castle, a 16th century fortification, we also found sea birds and flowers. The churches of Canna brought unexpected discoveries, particularly the current restoration of one as a centre for Gaelic research. The stone carvings are dramatic. Botanists identified an unusual assemblage of plants on a small mound on Sanday. Our archaeologist pointed out that the localised habitat was the top of a small Bronze Age burial cairn. The plants included mountain everlasting and spring squill. There was a fascinating mix of plants which enjoy base-rich soils and those preferring very acid soils. We were excited by this example of multi-disciplinry exploring. We saw an island with a long sense of history and an immediacy of its natural history. It was overcast on Canna and the colors were subdued. Scotland's weather can change quickly and our arrival at Eriskay coincided with a period of brilliant sunshine. Many visited the shop and post office and enjoyed the chance to talk with local residents, who gave us special insights into island life. A straw poll of guests assures us that the colors, birds and flowers of this small island were something that they would not have missed for anything. This was a memorable day with many photographs of that iridescent landscape of the western isles that we hope our cameras have captured successfully. The Caledonian Star is a perfect tool, enabling us to visit these small and isolated islands. With her fleet of Zodiacs, we can land almost anywhere. Also important are the crew and officers who make our lives easy and comfortable. Whatever the sea conditions, our hotel manger with his waiters serve us three great memorable meals every day. There is sense of travelling in an atmosphere of international conviviality of cuisine and friends.
6/8/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
Fair Isle is a small island situated half way between the Shetlands and the Orkney Isles, sitting on the border of the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea. It is a very prosperous island with a population of about 70 people. As we arrived in early morning, islanders were out to greet us, leading us to one of the highlights to the island, the puffin colony. Just to sit for a while an enjoy these "parrots" of the ocean is marvelous. There is constant activity. As the great skua, which also nests on Fair Isle, patrols, all the other birds take flight. At times, the bay was literally covered with puffins. Staff from the bird observatory described the bird life on the island and wherever you looked, you saw birds. As we walked out to the puffins, parasitic jaegers and great skuas dove at those who stepped too close to their ground nests. The island fleet of cars was ready to take us to the community hall, or anywhere else on the island that we wanted to go. We enjoyed a welcome cup of hot tea with all types of delicious pastries; Scottish pancakes with lemon curd went especially quickly. Locals also showed us how they make the famous Fair Isle sweaters. It was hard to withstand the temptation and not buy one! The island also houses a lot of history, from Bronze Age graves to World War II. As the Spanish Armada was driven north through the rough North Sea by Francis Drake, one of the Spanish ships went aground on one of the many rocks around Fair Isle. Some of the crew were taken ashore and kept as prisoners and later sent to Scotland. Viking ships have been here. We wished that we had more time to explore this splendid island. It is hard not to love this island, which houses so much of interest.
6/11/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
A savory taste of Scotland! We began our voyage through the British Isles in Edinburgh, cultural capital of Caledonia. After a brief introduction to the ship we toured the town. We saw the homes of two of Edinburgh's literary giants - Robert Louis Stevenson and Sir Walter Scott. The Royal Mile, Edinburgh's most famous street, runs from the ancient castle that houses Scotland's crown jewels down to Holyrood House, now the royal residence in Scotland. Today this medieval road is lined with pubs and shops selling tweed and woolen plaids. We ascended Calton Hill for an overview. Besides another look at many cultural sites, we had a good look at Arthur's Seat and the Salisbury Crags. Both of these prominent landmarks are testimony to volcanic activity in Edinburgh 350 million years ago. Millions of years of erosion have since stripped away the overlying deposits and exposed the very core of the volcanoes. Arthur's Seat was formerly a volcanic pipe that once served as the conduit for lava, ash, and other volcanic debris. Returning to the ship, we were surprised to find a Scottish musical greeting. No other instrument so typifies Scottish pride and culture as the highland bagpipes. As the ship eventually pulled away from the dock, the visceral sound of the pipes could be heard from a great distance. It was easy to understand how Scottish warriors of by-gone days could be inspired by the powerful sound and emotion of the pipes while charging into battle.
6/13/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
After leaving the small isolated Fair Isle, we made our way southward to the Orkney Islands. Weather forecasts warned about a strong wind developing during the night and through the day. Our Captain made the decision to anchor for the night off the capital of the Orkney Islands, Kirkwall. This morning, looking out from the comfort of the Caledonian Star dining room, we could see that the wind was extreme. The bridge reported that all of the harbors were closed and ship traffic was curtailed until the weather improved. So our day was spent relaxing onboard and learning about the history and natural history of Scotland from the ship's staff. By evening the wind was starting to calm and weather reports are encouraging for the next few days.
6/15/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
Rising above the stark Hebridean landscape are a complex of Neolithic stone monuments that have fascinated and intrigued observers for centuries, if not millennia. The most fabulous example of these mysterious monuments are the Stones of Callanish. The stones are located on the Isle of Lewis, the largest island in the Outer Hebrides which are located off the northwest coast of Scotland. This evening we took advantage of our high latitude (58 degrees north) to visit this famous site, bathed in light, under blue skies. Although the Stones of Callanish are considered ancient in terms of human time, the gneiss rock from which they are constructed is vastly older. Dating back some two billion years or more, the rocks of Lewis were once part of an ancient continent that was composed of North America, Greenland, Scotland and western Scandinavia. This block of rock was subsequently broken apart by the formation of the Atlantic Ocean only 100 million years ago. We see then that the rocks, like the people who built the monument, have traveled a long way to participate in the site. In map view, the Stones of Callanish form a cross, with a circle of stones surrounding the intersection of the four arms. The central ring of stones comprises the first stage of construction, beginning around 5000 years ago. Approximately 500 years later, the ring was expanded to become a chambered cairn that served as a communal burial tomb in which pottery and the cremated remains of humans were placed. The arms of the cross were put in place sometime between 5000 and 3500 years ago. As the centuries passed by, the site was despoiled on numerous occasions and many of the original artifacts were lost. By the time the site was initially dug out in 1857, nearly five feet of peat, or turf, in the local lingo, covered the site. Today, the Stones of Callanish stand as a mysterious reminder of Neolithic life. Many questions arise in one's mind when seeing the site, most notably why they were built, but this evening many of us were content to simply admire the work of a culture long gone.
6/17/2000
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National Geographic Endeavour
From the Caledonian Star in Scotland
Iona An island's name associated with the Irish monk Colum Cille, also known as St Columba, who founded a monastery here in AD 563. In and after Columba's lifetime, Iona was hugely influential in spreading Christianity throughout Scotland and England. Today the island still attracts pilgrims, both religious and secular. While some are attracted by the historic remains, others are still active in the Iona Community, a 20th-century religious group committed to working with the poor and destitute. At the heart of the Celtic monastery stood several 'high crosses', of which this one, St Martin's Cross, dates to about AD 750-800. They are key monuments in the evolution of Early Christian sculptural art in Scotland and Ireland, and feature geometric designs together with biblical scenes. Originally they would have been highlighted with colored pigments to enhance their effect - today we see them almost as they emerged from the carver's chisel over 1000 years ago. Behind the cross stands the church of the Benedictine Abbey which was founded about AD 1200, and which replaced the Celtic community. Eventually abandoned after the Reformation in the mid-16th century, the church became increasingly ruined until it was rescued from picturesque decay in the early 20th century and restored to its original use. Together with its accompanying monastic cloister, the cluster of associated churches, chapels and ancient burial places, and the separate medieval nunnery, this small island still radiates the ideals of its founding father, St. Columba.
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