Spitsbergen, 6/23/2017, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Arctic
Although the days don’t dawn here in the High Arctic (because the sun doesn’t set just now!), we woke up to the news of polar bears ahead of the ship. The skies were grey and the sea was still and glassy, making for beautiful photography conditions. The bears were obliging and our captain deftly maneuvered the vessel close to one bear who snoozed as we looked on in astonishment.
For as long as he can remember, Conor has always been preoccupied with the natural world, from the whales to the fungi. For most of his life he has been an islander: growing up in Cobh, Ireland and settling down in Tobermory in the Hebrides, Scotland...
Today, we landed at the stunning glacier front of Nordbreen, nestled deep within the majestic Wijdefjorden. The day offered unforgettable experiences, both on land and at sea. Our long hikers embarked on an epic journey up to the ridge of Slettho. The ascent was rewarded with sweeping views of the rugged, dramatic landscape carved by ancient ice. From this high vantage point, we felt the raw power and isolation of the Arctic. As we stood together in five minutes of silence, taking in the vast stillness, nature answered with a breathtaking moment: the glacier calved. The thunderous sound echoed across the fjord—a powerful reminder of the ever-changing world of ice. Meanwhile, our Zodiac cruisers witnessed the same calving event from sea level. From the water, they felt the full force of the glacier’s collapse—the crash of ice, the rolling waves, and the deep, resonating boom that followed. It was a rare and visceral moment, connecting all of us more deeply with the Arctic wilderness. A day like this reminds us of why we journey to these remote places: for connection, perspective, and awe.
This morning, National Geographic Resolution explored the northeast coast of Spitsbergen Island. On approach to our landing, the ever-watchful spotters on the Bridge found a mother and cub polar bear on fast ice at a comfortable distance from our landing site. On shore, we divided into casual, moderate, and long walkers and set off into the high arctic tundra to explore the barren beauty of this high latitude. The long walkers made it to a high point with an amazing view of the ship and fjord, while the casual and moderate walkers explored the fjord-indented coastline. After lunch, we hopped into Zodiacs for an amazing cruise along the bird cliffs at Alkefjellet. The highlight was the thousands of Brunich’s guillemots nesting on dolerite ledges and covering every available space. Birds, birds everywhere! It was truly a sight to see and hear. We found an arctic fox cruising along the rocky shoreline and incredibly steep terrain, looking for anything (eggs, chicks) falling from the sky. Most of these bird cliffs have a resident fox den beneath them, as the abundance of birds helps sustain them. It was another incredible day at Latitude 79 North!
The last full day of the voyage, and we hit a grand slam! We spent the morning with walruses, the afternoon with the largest of all animals, the blue whale, and later we encountered one of the smallest whales, the beluga, the so-called canary of the sea.
