The early morning hours found National Geographic Sea Lion cruising Idaho Inlet, located at the north end of Chichagof Island. Watchful eyes scanned the sea in search of sea otters and other marine residents of the narrow inlets that run along the rugged coastline of one of the larger of the many islands that make up Southeast Alaska.
During breakfast our ship repositioned to the Inian Islands located in Cross Sound. These islands mark the northern entry of all tidal waters that enter into Alaska’s coastal waterways. During the days of the month when full moons and new moons mark the calendar, more than twenty feet of water pours through the narrow openings in and around the Inian Islands. Our morning destination was a Zodiac ride around these islands, in search of many local residents. Shortly after breakfast our group was assembled, awaiting the call to board Zodiacs. Five small crafts were fully loaded and pulled away from Sea Lion beginning one of two hour-and-a-half cruises. The first cruise left in outgoing tidal waters. Sea water was rushing out into the Pacific Ocean as the maximum low tide and the following slack waters between tides approached. Zodiacs made their way west and north out into a myriad of small cupcake-shaped islands. Steller sea lion haul-outs; sea otters rolled up in the safety of bull kelp; seabirds of many species; bald eagles by the tens sitting in the trees; the smell of the changing tides...every sense was gifted and/or assaulted, depending on one’s interpretation!
At the end of the first round those of us on the water could feel the change in the waters...the tide was switching and all of the seawater that had rushed out to sea began its push with a roar as it poured through several narrow inlets. On those incoming waters huge amounts food was being churned up in the famous nutrient-rich northern Pacific Ocean. Eighteen hours of light helps create massive productivity for the water column, which in turn feeds everything from the tiniest creatures to the largest; the humpback whales we watched taking long deep breaths, diving, returning to the surface mouths full of seawater and small schooling fish! Alongside the whales, Stellar sea lions were diving a short distance and returning to the surface with salmon hanging out of their mouths. Bald eagles fought with each other and eventually made their return from the sea back to a waiting Sitka spruce or rocky outcropping, a rockfish in their talons. Small seabirds zoomed in on the tiny bits of torn fish left on the surface of the sea by larger animals, while the currents of the incoming tide churned into whirlpools all around the Zodiacs. Each driver spoke about the pull on the tiller as they maneuvered in and around an enormous feeding frenzy and the rushing tidal change!
All too soon, all Zodiacs were reminded to return to Sea Lion. Lunch was waiting, and we would be repositioning to our afternoon destination of Fox Creek on Chicagof Island. Once ashore, groups were organized, and off we went into the zenith of the Alaskan summer. It’s the peak of the orchid bloom and Fox Creek had two spectacular meadows filled with wildflowers of many colors and in every direction we were greeted by the scent of a flower or a delicate arrangement of petals awaiting a pollinator. The scent of bog orchids, Angelica and cow parsnip wafted over both meadows. Wild strawberries, salmonberries and wild blueberries were a treat to photograph and then eat! Our senses were again gifted as we made our way from seaside meadow to deep temperate rain forest; each step bringing yet another delight to smell, photograph and eat!
Late afternoon also saw a weather change of sun and warmth! As we slowly returned to Sea Lion blue sky began to increase...the mountains came out, the forested hills lit up in sunlight. Red sky at night, sailors delight? Maybe this place of a 1000 islands called Southeast Alaska would give yet another gift of open skies and long vistas.
