We breakfasted as we cruised into Isafjordur to anchor off our destination for the morning, Vigur Island. However, with whales spouting within the fjord there was something to see on the way, and the captain brought the ship quietly towards one of the animals. These humpback whales were clearly feeding, and were taking short duration dives of a few minutes, coming back to the surface to breathe several times before then diving again. With one animal very close to the ship, we had stunning views, with it actually seeming to “sleep” on the surface for several minutes right beside the ship. Several dives also included fantastic raised fluke profiles, giving us a chance to get those classic humpback shots.
We then headed in towards Vigur Island, anchoring just off the landing site. Smalls groups went ashore, getting a Zodiac cruise on the way in, with more great views of the humpback whales. Puffins in the thousands were resting on the water or flying past the Zodiacs; clearly there is a lot of productivity in this fjord!
On Vigur we walked around the island with a local guide, who explained the history of the island, and gave an insight into what it is like to live there, as well as a lot of information about the birds that nest there. Common eiders are “farmed” on the island, and around 3,500 nests are made on the island, with the down the female plucks from her breast being taken and cleaned before being made into eiderdown comforters or pillows. As well as this around 100,000 puffins nest on the island, plus thousands of Arctic terns. As we walked around the island we had to hold short sticks above our heads to prevent the terns from attacking as they protected their nests and chicks. It was a fantastic chance to see the small chicks hiding in the grass, and occasionally being fed by an adult. Puffins were also returning to their nests with sandeels, their preferred prey, flying around several times before dropping to the ground and quickly running into their burrows. Clearly we were here at a very busy time of the year!
After our walk we had a quick cup of tea, some lovely homemade rhubarb tart, and then checked out the post office and shop, where some of us couldn’t resist the temptation to purchase some down products.
Back on the ship for lunch, we relocated into Jokulfirdir, not far away and anchored just off Slettueyri. This used to be a little fishing settlement, but by the mid-1950s had been abandoned with people moving to larger nearby towns for work. The houses still standing are used as summer holiday homes, and with beautiful scenery surrounding the area, it is not hard to see why. We undertook a variety of activities, with long hikes up to overlooks, medium walks along the beach to investigate plants and other natural things, and photography hikes to work on the photographic skills. The afternoon was relatively warm and with no wind, it was a joy to be out and stretching our legs. The flowers were incredible, with tall stands of wild angelica, bartsia, wild geranium, and lady’s mantle all out and in flower to name but a few. Keen eyes also spotted a few orchids, moonwort, and butterwort.
Just before the end of the landing a pair of gyrfalcons flew over, calling and tumbling through the air as they locked talons briefly. To cap it all off there were cocktails on the beach as we headed back to the ship.
Another lovely day in Iceland.
