We arrived on the predator-free bird paradise of Ulva Island. In small groups with our local guides, we explored the native forest and encountered countless birds. The endemic trees of the forest are home to many species only found in New Zealand. It was a profound experience.

The afternoon was spent on Stewart Island where there is only one settlement with a beautifully maintained museum that tells the history of the island. The 300 residents have a rustic hotel and pub to meet up with fellow locals, and we were able to mingle there. From the veranda we enjoyed the hotel’s local botanical gin while birdwatching our feathered friends wandering the beach.

The day ended with the captain’s welcome and a perfect dinner.