Whaler’s Bay (Deception Island) and Half Moon Island, 12/26/2023, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
The last full day of our expedition brought us to the surreal Whaler’s Bay at Deception Island. The only way to access this historical site is through the narrow Neptune’s Bellows, which brought us into a caldera volcano that is still active. It last erupted in 1970.
In the afternoon, we arrived at Half Moon Island, where a colony of chinstrap penguins welcomed us as we hiked to an Argentine research station.
Amy Brummit has spent several seasons supporting science in Antarctica at all three United States research bases - McMurdo Station, Palmer Station and the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. These experiences include “wintering” at McMurdo Station whe...
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National Geographic Endurance woke up to heavy snow and tabular icebergs this morning. Everyone gathered on the Bridge and in observation areas to count down to our crossing of the Antarctic Circle. Past this parallel of latitude, the sun does not set near solstice. Captain Oliver Kruess and Expedition Leader Dan Olsen plotted a course to Detaille Island, 20 miles south of the circle. This is the site of the British Antarctic Survey Base W. Established in 1956 and used throughout the International Geophysical Year, the base was hastily abandoned in 1959, leaving behind a true time capsule. Trekking from our landing site through drifted snow, we were treated to a rare glimpse of life in an Antarctic base 65 years ago. Our departure from Detaille took us through close, wind-driven pack ice, highlighted by brief glimpses of the surrounding mountains through shifting fog.
After the magic of yesterday's White Christmas in Antarctica, we woke up excited for the day ahead. The festive snowfall in the South Shetland Islands made it a perfect holiday experience for both kids and adults. Today, gusts of wind up to 50 knots reminded us of how wild the Southern Ocean can be. Because of this, we started the day indoors with two inspiring lectures: one about the fascinating dynamics of the Southern Ocean and another given by our visiting scientists and entitled, “Penguin Research Around Antarctica.” In the afternoon, skilled Captain Oliver and Expedition Leader Dan found a sheltered spot in Paradise Harbour, where we launched the Zodiacs for a real Antarctic adventure. Penguins, glaciers, and the Argentinian base Almirante Brown set the scene for an unforgettable Zodiac cruise, with wind and snow adding to the excitement. Guests came back aboard thrilled and ready for a warm dinner. Just when we thought the day was over, we had one last treat. We sailed through the legendary Lemaire Channel, wrapped in a mysterious fog that made it even more extraordinary. It was the perfect ending to a truly Antarctic day.
Even with the strong winds across the Antarctic Peninsula this morning, we managed to bring the ship into a small area of shelter in Graham Passage for Zodiac cruising, and then we returned to our comfortable ship as the winds continued. In the afternoon, the wind died down and a pod of killer whales was spotted. Conditions were perfect for photographing them against the beautiful mountain backdrop.
