Whaler’s Bay (Deception Island) and Half Moon Island, 12/26/2023, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
The last full day of our expedition brought us to the surreal Whaler’s Bay at Deception Island. The only way to access this historical site is through the narrow Neptune’s Bellows, which brought us into a caldera volcano that is still active. It last erupted in 1970.
In the afternoon, we arrived at Half Moon Island, where a colony of chinstrap penguins welcomed us as we hiked to an Argentine research station.
Amy Brummit has spent several seasons supporting science in Antarctica at all three United States research bases - McMurdo Station, Palmer Station and the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. These experiences include “wintering” at McMurdo Station whe...
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Our day began in the legendary Drake Passage which thankfully was unusually calm, and we soon learned that we had made excellent progress overnight toward the Antarctic Peninsula. At around nine in the morning, an unexpected marvel drew everyone to the bridge — our first sighting of a tabular iceberg. Its immense, flat surface gleamed under the Antarctic sky, a breathtaking prelude to the wonders ahead. The morning onboard was just as engaging. Greg, our National Geographic Photo Expert, shared stories from his career and also practical photography tips to help us capture the essence of Antarctica. Following this, Kristian, one of our Naturalists, painted a vivid picture of the Antarctic food web, explaining the intricate connections that sustain life in this extreme environment. After a hearty lunch, we embarked on our first Antarctic adventure. Our destination, Mikkelsen Harbor, is a small island teeming with life. Hundreds of gentoo penguins, amid their breeding season, provided endless entertainment with their waddles and calls. As the day closed, we gathered in the ice lounge for the daily recap. The Expedition Team shared highlights, and Expedition Leader Steff revealed tomorrow’s exciting plans. With views of the icy wilderness outside, we settled in for the night.
We left Ushuaia yesterday and were treated to a beautiful sunset as we sailed through the Beagle Channel. We awoke this morning to the open waters of the Drake Passage. The following winds were light and the seas gentle, with great visibility. Even with the calm conditions, there were many seabirds flying along with the ship. The albatrosses put on quite a show, with snowy, royal, black-browed, and light-mantled gliding around us much of the day and into the evening. We spent time watching them, photographing them, and learning more about them at the seabird presentation. The day at sea passed quickly, as we also learned about smartphone photography, met the field staff, completed briefings and biosecurity, met the officers at the captain’s welcome, and enjoyed delicious meals and treats prepared by our talented galley team. We went to bed excited for our arrival in Antarctica tomorrow, and our first views of mountains, penguins, and ice! We are ready.
Shortly after sunrise, coffee in hand, I made my way to the bridge. A pretty sunrise greeted me with the islands of Cape Horn visible over 50 miles away. I knew it would be a nice day. Southern royal albatross flew by, traveling all the way from their nesting grounds in New Zealand. After rounding the horn, we made our way into the Beagle Channel. Here, we saw some dusky and Peale’s dolphins and even a few sei whales. We continued to Ushuaia, completing the circle of this amazing voyage to Antarctica.
