This morning the National Geographic Explorer woke in low sky conditions off the west coast of Spitsbergen Island. As we explored the fjords of Bellsund we entered the 35-km long Van Keulen fjord, where we explored the glacial face and surrounds of Nathorst glacier. As we cruised along the moraine we were delighted by the diversity of birds we saw; long tailed ducks, common eiders, Brünnich’s and black guillemots to name a few. As we approached the glacial face we explored the beautiful ice calved from the face of Nathorst. This glacier surged (which means it advanced rapidly) in the winter of 2008 and by October of 2009 had advanced 8km, indicating an impressive velocity of up to 20 miles a day.
After lunch we repositioned to the north side of Bellsund where we made a landing at Camp Millar. This area was once surveyed by Ernest Mansfield of the Northern Exploration Company (NEC), one of a few companies that claimed large areas of Spitsbergen at a time when it was still thought of as No Man’s Land. The NEC was hoping to find gold at Camp Millar and a little pile of mine carts and two cabins are remnant of this discovery that never was. For those familiar with the Endurance and Shackleton Expedition in Antarctica, it is interesting to note that Shackleton was supposed to lead the NEC expedition in 1918 but the British government decided to send him to military service in northern Russia. Instead the NEC sent Frank Wild (who had been second in command on the Endurance) to Bellsund where he was in charge of 50 men and the preparations for mining a coal seam.
The landing at Camp Millar was a thrilling experience both on the ground and up in the air. Thousands of little auks swarmed like bees above us, coming and going from their nest sites, while curious reindeer ran around the tundra in between the groups. Those who took part in the longer walk made it to the two cabins built in 1910 by Ernest Mansfield where they saw the old mine carts that they used during their search for gold.
Just to make the day complete an arctic fox was spotted as we made our way back to the landing. What another incredible day here in the High Arctic!
