The Chilkat Peninsula stretches south from the mainland, splitting Lynn Canal into two uniquely different inlets. Today we flew, some in planes and some on foot to peer down from the level of mountaintops upon these fjords carved by glaciers. Rainbow Glacier calved last night. As we gazed at its blue and crevassed form hanging high in a cradling cirque we could only imagine the sound the ice would have made thundering past waterfalls, ledges and trees.

Nestled in a low pass near the base, the town of Haines retains its heritage. Fort Seward with pristine white clapboard buildings frames a rectangular parade ground. No longer do soldiers drill on the grassy flats but the smell of smoking salmon drew us to a tasty local feast. Energy renewed, we hiked a root strewn hummocky trail to Battery Point and sat amongst ruby red bunchberries looking up at the Coast Range's sharp pointed horns. And the sun shone!