San Esteban and San Pedro Mártir Islands

The sunrise found the Sea Voyager heading straight to San Esteban Island, home of some truly interesting plant and animal species. Located in the midriff area, San Esteban is characterized by high cliffs, abundant agave and extensive cardón cactus forests, as well as for a large colony of California sea lions and a very charismatic reptile, the endemic pinto chuckwalla. Chuckwallas are members of the iguana family and we brave explorers were able to find many, most of them hiding under the shade of cholla or sour pitahaya cacti. Being vegetarians, chuckwallas have big, wide bellies and a disposition to be close to the abundant cholla and cardón cacti in order to eat the young, fleshy stems or fallen fruit. Just like the other, larger iguana on the island, the spiny-tailed iguana, who prefers to eat its cardón fruit high on the branch. Many specimens of both species where seen by us, making our visit to the island a full one.

After a refreshing dip at the beach, we boarded the Sea Voyager and sailed south to our next destination, San Pedro Mártir Island. The vast open ocean seemed full of life as many sea birds, mostly young blue-footed and brown boobies flew close nearby. Soon, several sperm whales were spotted and we were rewarded once more by the sight of those marvelous creatures. Of course, a closer inspection seemed appropriate and I went freediving trying to get up close and personal with them and record their underwater antics in video. I counted on their curiosity, as it would be impossible for me to swim fast enough to catch up or out-maneuver them. However, despite of having seen many whales before, nothing could prepare me to the sight of a young, 20 ft long sperm whale that approached head on, playfully rolling on its belly while “scanning” me with its sonar. With my chest actually vibrating by the powerful sound, I felt privileged for being a tiny, temporary object of curiosity for such a beautiful baby. Later on the day many more activities and experiences awaited us but, for me, the day was already over…