As the dawn broke, we gazed in wonder at the towering ancient cliffs of pink and orange sandstone plunging into the sea of Collier Bay. The National Geographic Orion slowly approached the anchorage site at Raft Point, a place characterized by impressive geological cliff formations and of cultural significance to some indigenous people of Australia.
This is the place where we had the opportunity to sight the mysterious and intriguing Wandjina rock art. Wandjinas are the mystic ancestors of the Worrora and related Kimberley Aboriginal people, including the Ngarinyin and the Wunambal tribes. Wandjinas are considered to be the creators of human descendants, the land and laws, and are still able to exert their powers. They are represented by figures displaying large haloed heads with no mouths, painted on sandstone surfaces, usually facing west, or on the walls or ceilings of caves and shelters. Ochres in various colours of reds, browns, yellows, whites and blacks can be utilized as pigments. Most Wandjina paintings were done during the wet when ceremonies were taking place at a particular site. Only men who were the dedicated painters within the tribe took part in the painting.
The oldest Wandjina site may be up to 6000 years old and has been retouched and painted many times. The Wandjinas are intrinsically linked to the mythological life, social organization and seasonal movements of Indigenous Kimberley people. We were fortunate enough to meet some of the original custodians of the land that explained and shared their beliefs and stories about this special place and unique rock art. During our ascent to the natural art gallery, we were greeted by the iconic symbol of The Kimberley, the Boabs trees (Adansonia gregorii). These trees are related to the Madagascan and African Adansonia species known as Baobabs. Though not exceptionally high (up to 15 m), they can reach a massive girth of up to 20 meters. Standing tall as sentinels along the path, some of the specimens are considered to be almost 1000 years old.
After a well-deserved rest, it was time to visit the spectacular Montgomery Reef where we navigated and explored the tidal main channel, with its cascading and flowing waters. The importance of this unique ecosystem was evident, as it represents the largest inshore reef system in Australia. The vast area (400km2) of shallow, sheltered, sunlit, lagoon and pools of the reef platform represents supports a great diversity, is home to a vast array of marine life including dugong, reef sharks, rays, birds and an extremely large population of turtles who feed on the sea grass beds. On our way back we were joyfully surprised by drinks strategically served on an exposed sandbar, adding that extra refreshing taste to our adventures. This is The Kimberley, a place of magnificence that will touch your spirit, and each day will take you into a new exhilarating adventure.
