Svalbard: Forlandsundet, 6/8/2019, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Arctic
The Midnight Sun. What an remarkable phenomenon, and one allowing us to experience a week’s worth of wildlife, all in 24 uninterrupted hours of crisp Norwegian daylight. And today the explorers took full advantage of it. Today, we woke to the beckoning of a blue whale off our bow as we cruised north through Forlandsundet, which set the tone, as it just one of many of the amazing wildlife sightings of the day—including Svalbard reindeer, walruses, and the endemic beluga whale!
Paolo grew up just five miles from the ocean and for as long as he can remember, he’s always spent his free time in and around the water. As a high school student, he volunteered during the summer at the Monterey Bay Aquarium and he was an active Jun...
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During the night, National Geographic Resolution traveled quite a distance along the northwestern parts of Spitsbergen and in the morning stopped near Sarstangent, a narrow and long sand spit where walruses often haul out. The scouting from the bridge confirmed their presence. For the morning activity, guests were offered landing with, visiting, and observing the walruses resting on the beach. From time to time some of the walruses, probably well rested, moved away and disappeared in the water, others replaced them, coming from the water and joining the group on the beach. After lunch the ship relocated to a nearby Kongsfjorden, offering a spectacular view of a couple of glaciers with ice-covered mountains in the background. The guests had options of a strenuous hike to the top of a mountain for a panoramic view or Zodiac cruising. Large numbers of blue icebergs were scattered in the fjord. Nests of kittiwakes and glaucous gulls were attached to a concaving igneous cliff, providing an excellent shelter from precipitation. Curious harbor seals could be seen around the fjord. The nearby glacial front represented heavily crevassed ice and calved every few minutes. After dinner the guests had a chance to watch the presentation of the voyage slide show. However, the day was not yet over. Later in the evening a few blue whales were spotted near the ship, a very rare observation around Svalbard.
Patience is a vital element of expedition travel. Awakening to dense fog with no land in sight, our hopes for a morning outing were postponed. Still, we knew the land about us was breathtaking and so we enjoyed the scenery while we waited for the sky to clear. Slowly, rivers of ice pouring from mountaintops showed themselves over glassy calm waters. Wijdefjord, a rarely traveled fjord, was incredible. We took to our small boats to explore the flocks of birds, mountains of ice, and dramatic scenery that was now available to us. After the bravest of our ship took a polar plunge, we headed north knowing our patience was well worth it.
Today was a splendid day in Svalbard. Before lunch, we embarked on a series of invigorating hikes, relishing the opportunity to stretch our legs amidst stunning Arctic landscapes. The atmosphere was made even more enchanting by the presence of friendly Svalbard reindeer who were unbothered by our company. We also had a delightful encounter with a pair of rock ptarmigan. The male, adorned in brilliant white plumage with striking red eyebrows, captivated us with its beauty. The afternoon unfolded with unexpected marvels. We were treated to a memorable visit to a walrus haul-out, observing these majestic creatures in their natural habitat. Just before dinner, we were awestruck by the sight of one of Svalbard's largest Brünnich's guillemot colonies at Alkefjellet. As we sailed away from the towering bird cliffs, National Geographic Resolution gracefully disappeared into the misty fog, adding a touch of mystique to an already remarkable day. With every passing moment, Svalbard continues to unveil its wonders, promising another day filled with excitement and new discoveries tomorrow.
