Morning at Tobermory brought a mix of sunshine and cloud, sailboats in the harbor bobbing on calm seas. But as we finished breakfast, the weather moved in and the predicted “showers” fell–also known as downpours. Still, a group of enthusiastic hikers set off for a walk along the harbor’s edge through a lush forest that made us appreciate why this area is often called the Atlantic rain forest. Moss and lichen dripped off the trees, ferns, and flowers turning the understory green. Many made it to the spectacular waterfalls at our turnaround point, the falls running full after the morning’s storms.
Late morning, the Lord of the Glens set sail out into the open ocean, passing Ardnamurchan Peninsula with its lighthouse perched on the most westerly point of the British Isles. Gannets and manx shearwaters flew past as the ship traveled north, arriving at the Isle of Eigg just after lunch. An Sgurr, the dramatic rocky cliff “prow,” dominated the island’s horizon and a local bagpiper greeted us as the boat pulled up to the pier. One group of hikers set off for a scenic viewpoint below the prow, while another walked at lower elevations with Carol. Many took the opportunity to visit the Village Hall, where a music festival was taking place. Eigg is a community-owned estate, bought in 1997 by the Isle of Eigg Community Trust, a partnership between the island residents, the Highland Council, and the Scottish Wildlife Trust.
Back on the boat, we set sail towards the mainland. During our voyage, Robin gave a short presentation on the manx shearwater. Eighty percent of the world’s manx shearwaters breed in the U.K., with a large colony on the Isle of Rum, near our route, so it was not surprising that a large flock of the shearwaters lifted off the water just as Robin started talking. Krista followed up Robin’s nature talk with an iPhone presentation, sharing many tips on how to make the best of an iPhone camera.
Late afternoon, we arrived at Inverie on the Knoydart Peninsula, our final destination for the day. Everyone enjoyed a special Recap: whiskey tasting! Our well-educated bartender Andy guided us through the intricate world of Scottish whiskey. Robin followed up with a not quite so tasty talk explaining the significance of community buyouts and community-owned estates, including not only Eigg, but also Knoydart, along with many others across the country. The Knoydart estate was bought in 1999, and is now administered by the Knoydart Foundation.
After dinner, many ventured down to Inverie’s Old Forge Inn, enjoying the atmosphere at the most remote pub on the British mainland, a wonderful nightcap to another good day.
