Tracy Arm, Southeast Alaska, 9/14/2024, National Geographic Sea Lion
Aboard the
National Geographic Sea Lion
Alaska
A misty morning greeted us with three orcas hunting near the ship as we made our way into the Tracy Arm-Ford Terror Wilderness. Before lunch, we made it “across the bar” and into the fjord, where the sun came out just in time to get close to a waterfall at Hole in the Wall.
After lunch, the adventurous set out in kayaks and paddleboards to explore one of the many glacially carved inlets along the main fjord. The day was capped off with a Zodiac ride amongst the ice to view the South Sawyer Glacier, where we spotted numerous harbor seals and even a harbor porpoise.
Being lucky enough to have two homes—Australia and the U.S.A.—has given Tanish (who goes by Tani) a deep love for diversity among ecosystems and cultures and a desire to learn about them.
After a soggy day in Petersburg, we were thrilled to find our day in Tracy Arm flooded with sunshine instead of raindrops. Winding through the labyrinthine fjord is always an adventure this time of year, and we prepared for a veritable wall of frozen icebergs. But the fjord was surprisingly clear until the final bend, where a thick layer of pan ice stopped us in our tracks. Undeterred, we boarded our Zodiacs, crept below the steep cliffs, and prodded into the pan ice perimeter as far as we dared. Several mountain goats watched us from above, and a couple of curious harbor seals followed in our wake, patiently waiting for the pan ice to melt so they can wiggle onto the massive bergs and pup their young. A handful of humpbacks escorted us north through Stephens Passage, along with some blissfully calm water and more of that rare Alaskan sunshine. We have a long sail ahead of us this evening as we motor more than 160 miles toward mystical Glacier Bay.
As we entered Wrangell Narrows before breakfast and en route to Petersburg, we were met by a pod of about 8 Dahl’s porpoises. They made sure we were properly escorted, as they darted back and forth continuously in front of the bow to the absolute delight of all. Fortunately, no smartphone cameras were lost, although many were hung precariously over the side to capture photos and videos of the amazing performance. After about 25 minutes the porpoises peeled off, presumably to escort another ship entering their domain. After docking and lunch, we had a choice of five activities: two different hikes featuring muskegs, a bike ride or photo tour through town, and a walking tour of Tongass National Forest led by an Alaska Native guide. Because we are in a rainforest, much of our afternoon was under moderate-to-heavy rain, sprinkled with a dash of sun. We returned to National Geographic Sea Lion to view a blazing rainbow off the bow, and to enjoy a particularly rousing recap with a fashion show featuring guests who purchased items of clothing in Petersburg. The festivities continued with our traditional Crab Night dinner, while transiting into tomorrow.
National Geographic Sea Lion made her way back into Alaskan waters this morning. The glassy water offered reflections and sightings of a humpback whale to welcome us into spring on our northbound expedition. We made our way through the forest-covered granite walls of Rudyerd Bay. The clouds hugged the snowy mountaintops, with the sun offering sneaky peeks of the peaks. Known as the “Yosemite of the North,” Misty Fjords is a hard-to-reach pocket of wilderness, and no picture can capture its true beauty. We launched our Zodiacs and kayaks to explore and take it all in. Alaska has welcomed us back in her truest form of wonder.
