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Expedition Stories
Our fleet navigates the world in search of adventure. These are the stories they bring back…
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Previous Reports
10/23/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Garove Island, Bismarck Sea, Papua New Guinea This morning we cruised into the fantastic caldera that is the center of Garove Island. The inside of the island is all steep walls of green on volcanic ash and stone. Out of sight of the sea, the Oceanic Discoverer anchors in beckoning, clear blue water and launches our lander, the Xplorer, a covered craft able to carry us all to shore in one go. We follow a colorful local boat to shore with splendidly decorated rowers and a singer wishing us well and welcome. At the dock there is a brief performance by yet another group of singers. We are led by costumed dancers and musicians to a concrete stairway on the side of cliff that climbs to a lava plateau where there is a school, playing field, ceremonial field and a catholic church, St. Michaels. Here, we are treated to a number of performances by villagers in a variety of gorgeous native costumes - a number of performances because each clan wants to participate. Afterwards we are free to wander about with our new and very friendly acquaintances. In the afternoon we take the Xplorer to the mouth of the caldera for watersports. We have diving, snorkeling and tours on a glass-bottom boat. The water is warm and the fish are amazing in color, form and motion. There is lots of light with the sun so high in the sky and I think that more than a couple of us are reevaluating our sun block strategy, I certainly am! Not a bad thing…
10/25/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Sepik River & Manam Island Today we awoke to the sights of canoes, stilted houses, and jungle as we journeyed up the mighty Sepik (Sea-pick) to the village Bien. One of the great river systems of the world it winds its way in a serpentine fashion for over 700 miles from the Victor Emanuel Ranges into the Bismarck Sea. We were soon boarding Xplorer to shuttle the short distance to shore. Rain had softened the walking route as we meandered through the village towards the school grounds for our welcome sing sing making it slippery and muddy, some of us were guided along the way by the sure hands of the local villagers. Family houses and small market places dotted the route. We are starting to realize that Papua New Guineans may have been the first to recycle and reuse—the bush materials used to build houses are by-products from either the sago palm, or other trees gathered for food items. Sago is the staple diet along the river complimented with fish and greens. The Sago tree is harvested by felling it, pounding the flesh within, and then washing the fibrous crop to produce sediment. This flour is dried and stored for a month being used to make starchy pancakes and pudding on a daily basis, then the whole process repeated. With no nutritional value it helps line the stomach when out in the surrounding lakes and rivers, fishing or hunting. We were soon perched on the sides of desks and benches and being entertained by the local primary school. The program (written and handed to our expedition leader Larry) included assembly, flag rising, the national anthem, and pledge followed by a welcome from the head master Mr. Mato, and community leader Mr Boo. What a spectacle, over fifty dancers in traditional dress, complete with kundu and garamut drums paraded up and down the sports ground performing traditional songs and dancers. On the fringe of the grounds local markets of carvings, necklaces, and bilum (string) bags had culminated. The sing sing group is renowned in the local area having just returned from the middle Sepik performing for one of the provinces celebrations. Soon we were enticed onto the dance ground joining our expedition staff, lead by Suzanne, to the absolute delight of all. Never before had tourists danced, so stories of the Lindblad visit will be re-told for a number of months. Mr. Kaila directed the farewell song as we left with heavy heart from our experience in the Sepik, one that will be remembered for some time by visitors and locals alike. With our prized treasures we returned to the comfort of the Oceanic Discoverer . To cap the excitement of the day we were treated to a BBQ dinner and show with the magnificent Manam Island volcano lighting up the sky with its red glow.
10/27/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Tuam & Tami Islands An early breakfast, and a busy time ahead today. Our first stop is Tuam Island, a lovely raised-coral island in the Siassi district, with a population of c. 300, who look to the nearby large island of Umboi as their ‘mainland.’ They form a small part of the well-known Vitiaz Strait trading system, exporting fish and pandanus mats and receiving pottery, smoked meat, and other foodstuffs from mainland PNG. At the landing site, the school-children greeted us with a beautifully rendered welcome song, the most melodious performance I’ve ever heard in Melanesia. Evangelical Lutherans, the islanders have their own kastom dance company, which performed expertly for us. Larry warned us it would be hot, and he was right, but such was the warmth of the people and the high quality of their dancing that we were very pleasantly distracted. Large windbreak panels protecting both houses and gardens were a unique feature—and a testament to the strength of the midwinter winds that hammer Tuam and bring the bulk of its rain. Large tanks collecting runoff from tin roofs are prominent, indicating that at times the island is short of this precious commodity. Artefacts on sale included some black-painted coconut shells with beautifully inscribed designs. I saw a ten-shilling Head Tax sign from 1930, issued by the Australian Administration of the time. Pandanus is a well-used local resource, the large, hardy leaves as a roofing material and the thinner and softer smaller ones used for basketry. We bid the locals a reluctant farewell and set sail for Tami Island mid-morning. Bob Tonkinson talked to us about swidden horticulture, staple foods, and watercraft in Melanesia, then after lunch we reached Tami Island, also a raised-coral island, with a channel separating it from an inhabited low island. The locals were ready for us: near the school they sat in a large rectangle, with their wares on the ground and eager for some custom. The quality of their wooden carvings is exceptional—in my view on par with those of the Trobriands, which are the best PNG has to offer. Following a short, well rendered sing-sing, it was time for hard decisions: so much beautiful craft on offer, and today our guests were, unsurprisingly, in a buying mood. In ideal conditions, with a cool breeze wafting, it was with reluctance that we reboarded Xplorer , but snorkelling had been promised, and within 40 minutes, Xplorer was off and running again.
10/29/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Tufi, Papua New Guinea At first light we are some miles off the coast of the Papua New Guinea ‘mainland.’ There is a bit of wind chop over much of the sea, but where we are the chop is broken by exposed reef and sand… after breakfast this is the site for SCUBA divers and snorkelers. Here, at Cyclone Reef, the water is warm, crystal clear and full of life. The visibility seems unlimited and the fish species too numerous to count and the show was great for divers on the reef edge, as well as for snorkelers on the reef top. We return to the Oceanic Discoverer from our water sports at about mid-morning, happy and chatty, heave anchor and set course for the Tufi ‘Fjords’ on the mainland. These are not real fjords, not hard rock carved by glaciers, rather they were formed by lava flows, ‘like fingers into the sea.’ They are extraordinary just the same, shear cliffs and waterfalls surrounding calm waters and today, decorated outriggers with boys vigorously blowing shell horns, playing out some sort of ritual involving a young woman being led off for sacrifice(?)…okay, some of this is from my own inflamed imagination. Nonetheless, after a short time anything serious became a thing of the past as the youngsters began climbing trees and vines overhanging the water and taunting us while having too much fun. From the fjord it is a short ride in the Xplorer to Bewame village, a ‘scary’ greeting, a small climb, and we arrive another beautiful village with a short sing sing and much shopping offered.
10/31/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Twin Towers/Ferguson Island Papua New Guinea We arrive early morning at the D'Entrecasteaux Island Group, just off the southeastern tip of New Guinea. The D'Entrecasteaux Island Group marks an extraordinary geographical transition from the flat coral islands of the Trobriands to the wild volcanic rocks we now gaze out upon from the promenade deck. ‘Good morning, good morning’ was the announcement from our expedition leader Larry Prussin followed with ‘look out for the Sea Eagles circling the ship.’ This morning Larry and the Oceanic Discoverer crew worked his magic and we were to enjoy yet another snorkeling experience, our last for the trip. Whilst it was an expedition stop at ‘Twin Towers’, located between the island of Ferguson and Sanaro, it turned out to be the highlight of the trip, with most us staying the full two hours in the water, dissolving into this marine wonderland. The abundant variety of fish life on the reef was the best we had seen. Ferguson Island, the largest island of the group, is notable for its hot springs, bubbling mud pools, spouting geysers, and extinct volcanoes. It has been suggested that perhaps it is this fearsome landscape that gives these islands their reputation for witchcraft, sorcery, and ruthless cannibalism. The afternoon was spent discovering Dei Dei hot springs, led in small groups, by the traditional landowners. We were told about the mythical Seuseulina spirit which lives in the geyser, when called upon it erupts (after a few attempts). In the past there was a woman named Seuseulina whose husband had run away with another woman, and she threw herself, heartbroken, into the largest of these hot springs, which thereafter became this sprouting geyser. The guides threw stones and called out ‘Seuseulina dasurabe udaseura sundine ama oagao sida ital’ – ‘come out, come out and show yourself Seuseulina’ and the geyser sprayed furiously in response. When asked what the thermal pools are used for today, our guide responded by saying “to cook food, wilt pandanus leaves (used for weaving), and any tourists left behind”… uncertain if the comment was a ruse or not it certainly helped to keep us on track and back in the Xplorer for our return to the ship. After a refreshing swim from the bow of the ship (much to the local’s amusement) followed by the captain’s farewell drinks, a ‘chance to forage’ in the words of our fearless leader, and farewell photos, we were bound for Alotau the end port of our journey. The comradelier of the trip over flowed with final farewells, linking new and old friends together in the friendship of travel.
11/3/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Kitava, Trobriand Islands, Papua New Guinea Today was our first full expedition day of the trip, and it proved to be a very colourful and culturally rich morning on the island of Kitava, where the schoolchildren from Kumwageya village school staged a memorable dance fest. The people of the Trobriand Islands are very proud of how well they have maintained their valued traditions, and cultural instruction is a vital part of the primary school curriculum. The weather was perfect for our visit and we landed right at the dancing ground, where we were adorned with lovely plumaria leis as we entered the dance ‘enclosure’. The great Bronislaw Malinowski’s writings in the early decades of the 20th century made this culture famous among anthropologists and other travellers worldwide. A large crowd of villagers were also in attendance, keen to sell the beautifully carved wooden artifacts for which their islands are justly famous. Today, we were treated to a full set of traditional dances by pupils ranging in age from six to fifteen; all were wonderfully decorated, and proudly watched by their relatives as they danced. There is no mistaking the sexual undertones of the dances aimed at ensuring the fertility of the all-important yam crop. Once the dance program had ended, and our Captain was presented with a token of appreciation for bringing us here, we visited the local craft market, which had come to us right at the beach, before beginning a walk along the ‘main road’ that leads up to the village, one of four on Kitava. For the local children, the highlight of their day was a ride on Xplorer; when the offer was made, I’ve never seen so many small bodies move so fast, and our landing craft was filled in a minute. By the time we returned for water sports early afternoon, the action had shifted to nearby Nuratu Island, with its gorgeous white beaches, wonderful coral reefs and incredibly clear blue water. Suzanne was our able swimming instructor, watched from the shade further up the beach by about thirty men and boys. Most are carvers, and had brought their pieces across to the island, hoping that there would be further interest in the purchase of artefacts. Alas for them, the lure of the water was too strong, but they seemed content to sit and watch, smoking the thinnest cigarettes imaginable or chewing betel nut – easily spotted because of the redness of mouths and teeth. Later, back on board, Larry and the crew took us through emergency drills, lifeboat muster, and other necessary precautions and procedures for life at sea. We considered ourselves blessed that the weather had remained so perfect. Before dinner we assembled in the lounge for drinks, and I spoke about some of the complexities of the ‘Kula Ring,’ and Larry briefed us about what we may expect tomorrow when we visit the Tufi area and its spectacular drowned river valleys or rias.
10/24/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Crown Island, Papua New Guinea Today we had a morning visit to Crown Island, which is inhabited by members of a single family, headed by Elijah and his wife, Anna, who have nine children and moved to the island less than ten years ago; they own this part of the island. Anna’s mother is also living with them. Their three adult daughters have married and moved off-island. Son Peter, who is 27, has a wife and children on Long Island. For medical attention and supplies they rely on their outboard-driven dinghy to get them either to nearby Long Island or, less frequently, a five-hour trip to Madang, the provincial capital. Their younger children are missing their schooling, since this settlement is too small to have a school. With family members as guides, we went on a delightful walk from the hamlet into the forest, gradually gaining altitude as we passed through a typical tropical rain forest, alive with difficult-to-spot birds in the upper canopy. We saw several clearings containing gardens past and present. Like other Melanesians, this family practises swidden horticulture, entailing the annual clearing and burning of patches of land in the forest to plant a mixture of crops. The family derives an income from selling copra and smoked fish in Madang. Following our return to the ship, the order of the day was snorkelling and diving for those so inclined, then in the afternoon we set sail for the Sepik.
10/26/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Madang We cruise into very protected and picturesque Madang harbor at sunrise. There are a number of houses right on the raised shore reminding me very much of the Florida Keys, and indeed, Madang is a resort town. After breakfast we take the Xplorer in for a dry landing at the Madang Resort Hotel. Most of us opt for a bit of a jungle walk before making a village visit. We ride a couple of comfortable couches high into the surrounding hills. The houses have changed, they are on stilts and have verandas for good views and nice breezes, they also claim it is an excellent way to avoid snakes… of which nobody ever sees. The jungle walk was a bit of up and down, but there were plenty of local folks to help us along, although it is a bit disquieting to be helped along by a woman holding a baby or by an eight year old, but they do live here and walk this type of trail every day. In anticipation of our arrival they had cut steps into the steeper parts of the trail, put in hand rails, and even made a small earthen dam on a stream… actually I think some of the kids made the dam once they got bored with trail making. It was an interesting walk with buttressed trees, woody lianas, a few colorful beetles, and delightful people. After the walk we headed for the shade, the breeze, and our fill of water. Then it is off to Kaipsul Village for a sing-sing. The villagers are very orange. They have rubbed themselves with the fruit of the lipstick plant, Bixa that you might know as annatto. The dancers here are dressed differently than any others we have so far seen… they are wearing tapa cloth. After the sing-sing it is back to the ship, through town, past the fruit bats in their thousands roosting in trees, with a brief stop at a memorial for the WWII Coast Watchers. After lunch, some of us went to town to look around and most likely shop a bit, while the rest of us went off to nearby Pig Island for water sports. The diving is very pretty with lots of fish and nice colors.
10/28/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Lababia, Papua New Guinea This morning we awoke to the wonders of Lababia, a coastal village home to over 750 people. This sandy cove stretches for miles under the shadow of the surrounding hills which cascade down into the iridescent blue of the Solomon Sea. The attraction is the 69,000 hectare Kamiali Wildlife Management Area comprising of prime rain forests, mangroves, coral reefs, waterfalls, rivers, and lakes. The only access to this remote village, situated on the mainland of Papua New Guinea, is by boat from Lae or Salamaua. We are welcomed on arrival by the customary sing sing, with a number of groups vying for our attention decked in bright colours, exotic head dresses, and gleaming body oil. Once our creative side had been sated and our shopping complete we commence our rain forest walk along the Kamiali Trail through the sago swamp and protected rain forest. The Bishop Museum, Hawaii, has been working with traditional landowners in this area to develop a biological field station. This initiative, which is supported by the Swifit foundation, Morgan Family Foundation, and other private donors, along with the Royal Botanical Gardens of Sydney, is addressing a critical research and training need in Papua New Guinea, promoting sustainable use of marine and agricultural resources. We met the instigator of the project, Nero Keposing and his wife Lucy. Under their tutelage the villages have developed community gardens, some hours from the village and share fishing catches in the aim to lessen the strain on the surrounding environment. Apart from a few muddy creek crossings, encounters with wildlife (small python & spiders) our rambling walk was enjoyable, all the more so with a return by outrigger canoe gliding us past mangrove studded banks to complete the experience. With so many new friends it was truly hard to break away from this idyllic setting to return to the Oceanic Discoverer . Prior to departure a last-minute photo frenzy captured, what felt like, a majority of the village children swimming, duck-diving, and body surfing onto the volcanic sand shoreline. Once again we were soon underway powering onwards to our next destination. Soon Bob Tonkinson, our resident anthropologist, was sharing the intricacies of the Kula Ring, a trading network in the Trobriand Islands. After dinner, Suzanne Noakes, our other culturist, finished the day with an informal talk on ‘Sing Sing, Songbirds & Sexuality’ recapping the dancers, songs, and presentations we had experienced along this magnificent journey.
10/30/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Kitava, Trobriand Islands Accompanied by a lively pod of dolphins, we headed for shore on an overcast morning, having anchored close to Kitava and Narutu Islands, with the much larger and more heavily populated Kiriwina invisible to the west. Made famous almost a century ago by the anthropologist, Bronislaw Malinowski, the Trobrianders have retained many elements of their traditional culture, and children learn about it as part of their formal education. Their dance performances are now held at the beach, for the convenience of visitors, rather than in the main village of Kumwageya, along with the sale of beautiful wooden artefacts, inlaid with pearlshell, for which these islands have long been famous. Many carvers were already at the landing site with their carvings on display. Several groups of boys and girls, all colourfully and elaborately decorated, came into the dance enclosure once we were all seated, and performed several traditional dances for us. It was obvious that these dances have much to do with fertility, in the Trobriand case specifically the all-important yam crop. Most of the visitors headed up the ‘main road’ to the village, one of four major settlements on Kitava, and a few of us lingered at the market, perusing and chatting. Heavy rain late morning brought a rush of visitors to Xplorer, who amused themselves by watching the antics of the water babies around a favourite (and only) diving rock close to the landing. After lunch, it was water-sports on a cloudy, relatively mild afternoon, or relaxation on the dazzlingly white sands of Narutu. Those of us who snorkelled enjoyed the crystal clear water and healthy, colourful corals, not to mention a great variety of fish. Later, back on board, it was time for the disembarkation briefing from our leader, Larry—always a bittersweet time since it signals the imminent conclusion of our memorable PNG odyssey.
11/2/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Alotau, Papua New Guinea This morning we are at the Alotau airport waiting for the charter flight from Port Moresby. Just about on time, the plane was sighted! We made the short ride from the airport to the harbor where the Oceanic Discoverer is waiting. After a bit of talking and lunch it was off to a very special event, the first day of the ‘9th National Kenu & Kundu Festival’… that would be the Canoe and Drum Festival. There are dozens of traditional canoes and sail boats from here and many of the near and far islands of the Kula Trading Circle. Today there are sail boat races for the boys under 18 years of age, the arrival of important people in gorgeous war canoes, speeches, singing and dancing. There are hundreds of enthusiastic spectators. Quite the sight, quite the experience and completely unplanned. That is just the way it happens sometimes, something you will remember and treasure for a long time. That is how travel is, or at least can be. We left Alotau just before sunset and as we cruised through the calm waters of Milne Bay we enjoyed complimentary cocktails for Captain Kevin Stone’s Welcome and watched the sky go from bright, to blue, to pink. I can hardly wait for the next sunset, it seems that here they are all different, but all beautiful.
11/4/2012
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Oceanic Discoverer
From the Oceanic Discoverer in Papua New Guinea
Tufi Fiords - Papua New Guinea Our night of travelling had been a rough one. With seas this morning too choppy to snorkel and dive on Cyclone Reef, our expedition leader, Larry Prussin, made the decision to continue onto Tufi to allow us time to explore the harbour, the local resort and enjoy a village tour. On arrival we explored the tropical grounds of the Tufi Resort, complete with a scenic lookout and resident Blyth Hornbills (three in total) to welcome us. Not to let an opportunity go by us, the resort’s shop was well patronized. Most of us enjoyed the warm waters of the harbour below. The abundance of fish life and diversity of coral, sponges, and sea slugs amazed those who took the plunge. With the water temperature likened to a bath, many extended their stay. After lunch we ventured into the ‘fjord like’ surroundings and hiked in file to the top of the volcanic basalt karst cliff. Here we were welcomed to the village with shouts of ‘Oro!’ and a plethora of dancers decked in traditional tapa cloth and birds of paradise headdresses. Warriors darting to and fro, blackened by soot, was thankfully a show of bravado and not there to threaten us. Surrounding the dance arena were demonstrations of traditional fire making, women facial tattoo, string (bilum) bag making, and the obligatory marketplace. The Komoa Village representatives, Luke & William, shared their traditional knowledge, and made us feel welcome. Serendipity played its hand today with an alternative program offering us a unique experience to be immersed into the culture of the Maisin-speaking people. This region is isolated from the rest of Papua New Guinea with no roads and can only be accessed by boat or small plane into a grass airstrip. To cap off the day we joined our resident Anthropologist Bob Tonkinson in the lounge for his lecture on ‘Welcome to Melanesia’ before yet another glorious sunset over the Solomon Seas ending our day in paradise.
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