In the morning, National Geographic Resolution was still in transit towards Cape Bathurst on the mainland of Canada’s Northwest Territories. Smoking Hills is a renowned geological burning landscape first named by European explores in the early 1800’s. Here the earth is constantly in a state of fire, as a result of autoignition from the sulfur-rich lignite and brown coal deposits.

Morning presentations and observations were enjoyed before arrival. The underwater sea team elaborated on the process of diving in cold Arctic water landscapes, meanwhile several bowhead whales were sighted.

We approached the cliffs one nautical mile offshore, then launched a flotilla of Zodiacs to explore the sulfur-enriched air and witness a truly amazing spectacle. It was not a typical Arctic day, as outside air temperatures recorded above 20 degree C and we enjoyed the summer heat. Terrestrial life was limited, however, we observed migrating birdlife heading south, including Arctic loons, phalaropes, sandpipers, eider ducks, and a stoic peregrine falcon.

Back on board, cheese and wine followed by sightings of beluga whales with calves and more bowheads on the horizon.

The summer sun was slow to set, and we headed to bed dreaming of the next day’s adventures in the ice, where maybe, just maybe it might feel cool again.